Billy Strings Moda Center Portland, OR September 29 & 30, 2023 Poster Shirt

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It’s a bit of a full circle moment for Martens. After graduating from Antwerp’s Royal Academy, he went directly to work for Gaultier menswear, after an external juror at his degree show, a good friend of Gaultier’s, suggested he hire him. The experience left a profound impression on him. “I had friends who went elsewhere to work, and they were under a lot of pressure,” he said, “but with Jean Paul, it was about enjoying life, having fun. I try to make Y/Project the Billy Strings Moda Center Portland, OR September 29 & 30, 2023 Poster Shirt In addition,I will do this same: take the job seriously, but don’t ever poison the atmosphere.” The two designers met for lunch the other week, and caught up. During their meeting, Gaultier told Martens he’d often felt like an outsider in fashion, precisely because he tried to live a life that wasn’t just about fashion—and then bring it into his work. “Jean Paul was interested in going to the clubs, to the underground,” said Martens. “He had a life beyond fashion, and because of that, he gave us things like street casting, which shifted the idea of the beauty of high luxury, giving us a different way of thinking about fashion. It was groundbreaking.”

As to the Billy Strings Moda Center Portland, OR September 29 & 30, 2023 Poster Shirt In addition,I will do this ground he will be breaking with his haute couture for the house, Martens doesn’t want to give away too much—but the notion of celebration will feature prominently. Ask him about his favorite collections, and two RTW offerings spring to mind—the tattoos and piercings of spring 1994 and the homage to the clothing of Orthodox Jewish people from fall 1993—as well as the ostrich feather fantasias which the designer was a whizz at for his couture. “We’ve done gowns for Y/Project, but never sold one of them, they were show pieces,” Martens said, laughing. “But working on couture…it’s a chance to work with les petites mains, and spend time and really go deeply into the making of a dress. Couture is an absurd fairy tale,” he continued, “but it is like art: we cling onto it, and it makes us dream. And couture can do the same thing.”

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